In a faraway corner of Jylland (Western Denmark), right on the coast, lies the tiny hamlet of Fjerritslev.
There’s not much there, but one thing that attracts foodies from all over Denmark (and the ‘beau monde’ of Danish society), is an interesting ‘bathing’ hotel called Svinklov Badehotel.
Bathing hotels are a typical scandinavian thing. It conjures up images of a romantic day at the seaside with children bathing in a twilight of midnight sun and parents lying under a striped umbrella sipping their tiny glass of Gammel Dansk. And it’ s true that Svinklov and the pristine stretch of unspoilt white beach is part of that wonderful picture postcard.
We arrived just in time for the dinner service. Indeed, just showing up for a quick meal is not part of this idyll. You need to start planning weeks if not months ahead of time because this place is right on top of the list of ‘must-be-seen-there’ places in Denmark.
It’s been going since 1925 thanks to Carl Kronborg. Year in year out, it’s booked solid by families with healthy looking children with perfect teeth and pristine appearances or ex-ministers who want to show off their slightly faded, but still vivid ‘celebrity’ status to their guests. Actresses of a certain age bring their newly found younger companion here before they go public. Everybody knows everybody here, so being ‘non-resident’ guests we were dealt with as such. Our table was rather in an odd place and certainly not next to the window, which is considered ‘prime property’ at Svinklov.
Nevertheless it gave us a perfect viewing platform to watch the going-ons in the restaurant. The interior is bare and white, with pastel yellow curtains and table cloths. The yellow is a necessary splash of color in a very neutral space. The floors are famous for being repainted and waxed every year since decades, so the shine coming off the floor is impressive indeed.
We waited for a very long time for our dishes to arrive, however being right in time for the sun going down, we got up regularly to witness the dazzlingly intense colors of the setting sun.
Once the food did arrive we weren’t disappointed, fabulous vegetables, freshest fish, superb presentation and great flavours. It was all there right in front of us: great food, intriguing guests and fantastic seascapes.
Svinklov is open from April to October, has 36 rooms and has a rather plain appearance. But beware, appearances can be deceiving!
We experienced it like a night at the theatre; brilliant performances of intrigue and posture, healthy Scandinavian life style and excellent food, so well worth the money and the wait!
Seatings are at 18,00 or 21,00 and menus are from 340 DK to 475 DK or 20 DK extra for fish courses.
Svinkløvvej 593 • DK – 9690 Fjerritslev • Tlf 98 21 70 02 • Fax 98 21 70 38 • Bordreservation 98 21 81 05